Growing Nicely

The peas, green beans, carrots, chard, potatoes, lima beans, corn, spinach, arugala, turnips and flowers are doing well thus far.  There were many weeds to pull, soil to amend and watering the past couple of weeks.  I prepared a couple more garden beds and plan to use one for tomato, basil, marigold and chives.  The other one for corn, pole beans and watermelon.

Yet to find Nasturtium seeds as pest repellents for the vegetables, and Tansy to repel the cucumber beetle, although Zinnia seeds are planted. I've found that petunias repel the squash bug.

The compost heaps are doing very well which helps immensely, and I continue to add to two new heaps. One is completed, one is almost and there are two new heaps of sticks, weeds, dirt, and vegetation scraps.

Update: The Zinnias have grown tall and healthy, although I have a concern about mildew growing on them. When I grow them this year, 2012, I'll have to watch them to keep it to a minimum. Milk jugs with a bit of milk filled with water and poured in a spray bottle may help to combat mold. Also, keeping them thinned so they get enough air circulation. Even better yet, I'll stop planting them near a solid fence and plant them in areas that are more open instead.

Last season, companion planting worked very well in mitigating the bad bugs and attracting the beneficial insects. The garden environment was is harmony, however I still have to combat the zucchini vine borer (SVB), and cucumber beetle.

There are a few winter varieties of squash that have different stems. The SVB is unable to burrow through to the inside; Seminole squash. I hope to find these, Cucurbita maschatas and Trombochino this year as a summer squash.

sageymania

Natural Healing with Herbs

I'm anticipating on sprouts popping up within the next few days. Additional plantings of lately - cucumber seeds, more daisies, cosmos, marigolds, turnips, peppers, and another row of snow peas.

I'm looking for medicinal herbs and plants to add to the garden such as marshmallow, licorice, angelica, chamomile, echinacea, feverfew, aloe vera, hops, passion flower, skullcap, gotu kola, lemon balm, and nettles. These are very handy to have when illnesses occur as you generally just have to steep either fresh or dry leaves and make tea. To add flavor, mint leaves, cinnamon, lemon balm and honey can be added.

Dandelion leaves, roots and flowerheads are chock full of vitamins, minerals and fiber, easily cooked similar to the way one would season and cook spinach. Red Clover is also a wonderful herb in that it assists the cirulatory system. Horseradish helps to clear up sinus congestion and a stuffy nose, while thyme and nettle clears up chest congestion.

Hops and skullcap are helpful for anxiety and nervous complaints or for indigestion and cramps resulting from anxiety. Use the tea before bed if you experience insomnia.

To make tea, steep 1 to 2 tablespoons of hops flowers in a cup of hot water for 15 minutes. For anxiety, drink 2 to 3 cups of tea made from hops and skullcap throughout the day.

sageymania

Rain for the Garden

The rain yesterday was received with a warm and appreciative welcome as the garden was thirsty.  By the end of the week the ground will be warm enough to plant the warmer weather flowers, vegetables, and herbs.

Be sure to amend the soil with organic material.  There are various to choose from, such as; bark mulch, dry fertilizer pellets, compost, composted horse or cow manure, used coffee grounds, and crushed egg shells.  High nitrogen fertilizers should be used sparingly as it'll grow a lot of leaves, which is good, however, for spinach, and other greens.  Beans produce nitrogen and therefore, don't require much.  Maybe just one or two light treatments in the first two months.  Fertilizer can burn the plant so incorporate it into the soil as a 'side' dressing.

Tomato and bean plant stakes are best placed in the ground before the seeds or seedlings are planted to prevent injury to the roots.  Other plants that can grow upward are zucchini and other squashes, as well as many others that are described in square-foot gardener's books, blogs and sites.  This  kind of gardening is useful, if not necessary, for people who reside in apartments, and for whomever doesn't have much ground to work with.

LizOlivia  

Happy St. Pat's Day

I was able to get the early season veggies planted yesterday and today.  So far what's planted is lettuce, carrots, beets, green beans, radishes, swiss chard, cabbage, potatoes, snow peas, marigold, and daisy.  Still this week yet to plant are basil, marjoram, spinach, chives, cosmos, nasturtiums, and alyssum.

I'm hoping the seeds sprout since I planted them directly into the ground instead of starting them indoors.  I also hope to have a camera cord materialize soon so I can upload some garden pics.

A Good Day for Planting

The soil is drying, the birds are chirping, and the temps about 50 degrees...a good day to plant seeds and get the garden started.

This week's planting consists of:

Beets, carrots, lettuce, radishes, spinach, potatoes, cabbage, onions and peas.

Herbs and helper plants consists of:

Nasturtiums, alyssum, dill, mint, basil, thyme, chives, tansy, bee balm and marigold.

What to Plant at This Time

How is the quality of your soil?

A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is acidic,one with pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline.  You might need to adjust the soil to suit the plants for the areas in your garden.
Many garden centers will test a pH soil sample for you, or you can buy an inexpensive pH test kit at most nurseries, hardware stores or home and garden departments.  In general, a test kit includes a test tube, solution, and color chart.  Place a sample of your soil in the tube, add a few drops of the solution, shake it up and leave it for an hour or so to settle.

The solution changes color according to the pH level, compare this color to the chart to determine the pH of your sample.  Some kits include advisory booklets to interpret the results.  Soil adjustments are best made gradually over the course of a few seasons. The addition of hardwood ash, bone meal, crushed marble, or crushed oyster shells will also help to raise the pH level.

Read and follow the label's recommendations when using chemical products. Use protection such as a dust mask, and gloves. Lime should be applied only when tests show it to be necessary. If it's excessively alkaline, it might be better to build a raised bed using purchased topsoil.

Plants that grow well together:

Plant a few carrot seeds, basil, chives, bee balm and marigolds where you plan to grow the tomatoes; carrots help them to grow better. The marigolds and chives protect, and basil adds flavor into tomatoes as well as detracts hornworms.
Plant the carrot seeds, for harvesting, in with beans for the nitrogen that the beans add to the soil.  Also, with lettuce, radish, and peas.

Plant beets, mint, thyme and nasturtiums where celery, onion, potatoes and cabbage are planned.  Beet leaves contain magnesium which helps the soil, use with lettuce and onions.
Spinach and thyme where eggplant and beans will be planted. Spinach grows well with eggplant and celery.  Eggplants are a particularly good companion plant for green beans because they repel bean beetles, which can destroy green beans, while green beans deter california beetles, which can attack eggplants. Green beans will also assist in rotation planting, as the additional nitrogen in the soil will support heavy crops the following year.

Nasturtiums - repel aphids, cucumber beetles, squash bugs, white flies, and borers near fruit trees. Mainly cucumber, squash and green beans will benefit.
Green beans should not be planted near plants that do not do well with extra nitrogen, such as tomatoes, green peppers, or chili peppers. They also do not do well near beets, chives, onions, or garlic, as these plants can stunt the bean stalk.

Mint - improves flavor and growth for cabbage and tomatoes.
Tansy - deters ants, striped cucumber beetles, flies, japanese beetles, and squash bugs. Plant near cucumber, squash, roses, grapes, raspberry, and blackberry.
Thyme - near to where cabbage will be planted as this fragrant herb repels cabbage worms, flea beetles, and cabbage maggots.
Onions and garlic - plant away from peas and beans.

LizOlivia

Crochet in Progress

Have you ever started a project then ran out of material to complete it?  I started an afghan a couple of months ago that now sets in anticipation for more yarn to materialize so it can be completed.  It's a cables crochet that took me a while to become familiar with the pattern, but it got easier with each row.  So far, the color I used is burgundy and when I obtain the yarn, I plan to work light beige into it, for a number of rows.

The edging pattern has bobble stitches made of 5dc and seems it would enhance and enlarge about any afghan.  If yarn is of short supply, using either contrasting or different colors would use a less of each.

beg bobble st:  ch3 (as 1st st), *yo, insert hook, yo, pull yarn thru, yo,  pull thru 2 loops, rep from * twice (4 lps on hook), yo, pull thru all 4 lps).

bobble st:  *yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull thru, yo, pull thru 2 loops (lps), rep from * 4 x's (6 lps on hook), yo, pull thru all 6 lps.

The ends of the afghan number 107 sts, and the sides number 50 (end row) sts.
Pattern = multiples of 48 + 11 sts for smaller and larger sizes.

Edging for afghan (ws entirely):

1st rnd - ch4 and sk first st,  *5dc bobble in next st, ch1, sk1, dc  in next, ch1, sk1, bobble in next, ch1, sk1, dc in next st, ch1, sk1, bobble, ch1, rep from * to corner.
In corner, place a (dc, ch1, bobble, ch1, dc, ch1).
Down the side and into the base of ea end st:  *bobble, ch1, dc, ch1, rep from * to the corner, work the corner pattern as previously, rep from beg * once more, slst into 3rd ch of the beg ch4.

2nd rnd - ch3 (as 1st dc), 4dc bobble into joining st, ch1, dc into top of bobble, ch1, *bobble in next dc, ch1, dc in next bobble, ch1, bobble next dc, ch1.
In corner bobble, place dc, ch1, bobble, ch1, dc, ch1.
Rep from * around, slst top of beg ch.

3rd rnd - ch1, sc in 1st bobble, ch3, bobble next dc, *ch3, sc next bobble,  ch3, bobble next dc, rep from * around, end ch3, slst to beg ch1, fasten off.

Another current work in progress is a dog sweater for a lady at church of whom has two dogs, one of which has a habit of chewing on it while wearing it.

Dog sweaters are fun to crochet because there are many patterns to choose from, and they can be completed in a short amount of time in comparison to other projects.

Collar - determine the number of chain sts by measuring the circumference.  A small to medium size dog might be about 45 chs, slst to form a ring.

Rnd 1: ch 3 (as first dc), being careful not to twist yarn, work a dc into each ch of the ring, slst in top of ch3.
Rnd 2:  ch2, *fpdc, bpdc**, rep to end of rnd, slst in top of ch 2.
Rnd 3:  rep rnd 2, with ea fpdc and bpdc into same, to desired width considering the thickness of yarn being used.

inc rnd 1: ch 2 (as first hdc), hdc around, inc as many stitches as you find appropriate while also skipping 4or5 sts, instead ch 4or5 sts directly opposite the seam for the leash to attach to the collar.  2 tog every other stitch, for example, then slst to top of ch2.

inc rnd 2:  ch 2 (as first st), hdc around increasing about every 11th st.  Rep this rnd to reach top of shoulders, fasten off.

Breastplate for front paw sleeves:  measure across for size accuracy, or attach yarn 3 sts to the right or left and hdc 6 sts, fasten off.

Locate exact middle of back directly across from seam, measure about 11 sts to the side, attach yarn there and hdc across 22 sts, then either turn, or fasten off and attach yarn again at first st of last row for same direction of stitching effect.
ch 2 (as first hdc) and hdc back across ea st of previous row, then ch as many sts as was left out for that leg (ch about 23), join to bottom row with a hdc, hdc over the breastplate (6 hdc), ch again as many sts as was left out for the other leg (ch about 23), join with a slst to first hdc, fasten off.
Note:  The number of sts should be the same as before fastening off the first time.

Attach yarn at the underside seam, ch2, hdc ea st including into ea ch, slst in top of ch2.  Ch2 (as first st), hdc around, slst top of ch2, rep rnd to desired length.
Optional: Work a cuff at the end of this pullover such as some fpdc, bpdc rnds.
Fasten off.

LizOlivia

Materials to Layer a Compost Pile

While the weather remains to be cool and wet and it's too soon to till the garden beds, it is a good time to begin a compost pile to create a good soil.

Have you ever composted for quality soil?  This helps emmensely to nourish the soil, and hence, the plants reap the benefits. I started two heaps last year and hope to get enough rich soil to use this season from the one first started. They both are doing very well, although, they would make soil quicker if I turned them more often. This I plan to do when the weather is more permitting.

Compost contains a variety of the basic nutrients that plants require for healthy growth. In addition to the main three; nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, of special importance are micronutrients such as manganese, copper, iron, and zinc. They’re only needed in small amounts, like vitamins in our diet, but play an important role in the plant's ability to extract nutrients from other foods. These micronutrients are usually missing from commercial fertilizers.

The ph level, the measure of acidity vs. alkalinity, of the soil also benefits with the addition of compost. Finished compost has a neutral ph, and organic matter also has a high capacity to fix various toxins in the soil. The breakdown of this organic material usually provides 25% of its nitrogen the first year, 10% the second and third year, and declines to 5% the fourth and fifth year. Cover the garden or bed area with screened compost to a depth of one to two inches.

Materials to create a compost heap:

On a soil patch, not asphalt or concrete, place a few woody plant stems or small twigs on the bottom first as this will improve the air circulation and drainage.  Be sure that wood scraps are of the untreated kind.  An old pallet could also prove useful as the bottom.  Mix in some straw, and woody prunings to create air spaces.
Layer the materials thinly and uniformly when beginning the heap.  Add materials later by either burying them into the center, or incorporate them when turning the pile...weed the garden, mow the lawn, empty the kitchen bucket!

1st layer - organic materials such as vegetable wastes, sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, untreated sawdust, thin twigs and garden debris.  The bulky materials of organic nature do best in this ground level layer.  These will create air spaces as the pile settles.

2nd layer - starters serve as activators that accelerate the initial heating within the pile.  They provide a nitrogen source for the microbial community with some providing proteins and enzymes as well.

3rd layer - plain garden soil, avoiding soil that has recently been treated with insecticides and sterile potting soils which lack these necessary microbes; a 1 to 2 inch layer.

Within two weeks, a properly made compost pile will reach about 110 to 150 degrees in it's core.  At this time you will notice your pile settling which is a good sign that the pile is working properly.  Monitoring the temperature and turning whenever the pile cools to below 110°F keeps it active at the highest level, with the quickest breakdown. This means turning the pile more often, from the outside prameter to the center, such as once every seven to ten days. Turning a large compost heap can be strenuous work that requires a sturdy shovel and pitchfork. The compost pile can be turned in general, once every three to five weeks.
The organic material should feel slightly damp having only a drop or two expelled when squeezed tightly in the hand.

The compost should be ready to use three to four months later, for example, a pile started in April should be ready by mid-August to September of the same year. You can obtain a nice soil quicker by separating out a few smaller piles of a good mixture and allow them to decompose without adding any more material. Turning too often will disturb the activity of the microbes and interfere with the core's temperature. Leave the small piles to work in decomposing for about eight to twelve days before turning. How fast it will be ready depends on several variables such as the materials used and weather conditions.

The contents sinks as it decomposes, therefore, when you decide it's enough and you're needing the soil, stop adding to it leaving the heap to finish.  Large heaps could take up to a year to complete. The lower layers can be applied to the garden if it's composted enough. Mix everything else together well being sure to water it whenever it gets too dry or to add dry material when too soggy. Compost is ready to use when it is dark, brown, and crumbly with an earthy odor. It should neither be moldy nor rotten. Crumbly compost will be sort of fluffy, doesn't need to be of a powdery form. When it appears about ready, allow it to set for two to three weeks and stabilize.

Compost heaps can be left to shut down through the winter then reactivated again in the spring.

sageymania  

even edges and blocking

Crocheting into the first and last stitch is usually what causes the edges to be either straight, or uneven.

Turning chains:  make it easier to turn the project to start the next row, and raises the yarn up to the level in the row you're about to crochet.
Turning chains for different stitches (sts):

Single crochet (sc) -  1 chain (ch):  The turning ch does not count as a stitch (st), therefore you work into the first st of the row. At the end of the next row you do not work into the turning ch, because it doesn't count as a st.

Half-double (hdc) -  2 chs:  The turning ch may or may not count as a st, therefore, check the pattern and follow the instructions.  When ch2 does not count as a st, work into the first st directly below the turning ch. On the return, at the end, skip (sk) working into this turning ch.
When the pattern says that the turning ch counts as a st, count it as the first st and therefore, sk the first st and work into the 2nd st in the row.  At the end of the return row, work into the top of this turning ch, as it counts as a st.

Double crochet (dc) - 3 chs:  More often than not, the turning ch for dc does count as the first st,  therefore sk the first st and work into the 2nd st in the row.  At the end of the return, work into the top of this turning ch, as it counts as the last st in the row.
Counting the first st as a st, crocheting into it, and skipping the turning ch at the end will slant 2 sts to the right in every single row.

When beginning with the 2nd st and forgetting to work into the turning ch at the end of the row, a st on the left edge will by dropped, then when turning and working the other direction, another st is lost, or dropped, at that edge.

These dropped sts can be picked up when not too far along in the project.  Crochet an extra st at one edge, and a few rows later work an extra st at the other edge. These gradual corrections should barely be noticeable, especially when it will have an edge or border.  An abrupt change in the pattern might be too obvious.  After so many rows of adjusting, incorporate the correct method throughout the rest of the pattern.

To block or not to block (finishing):

Pushing straight pins downward, pin the item all around onto either a double layer, or folded, damp towel.  This also helps to straighten and freshen up the item after it's completed.  Lightly spray it with water, or steam, and lightly press with an iron set on a cool temperature.  If a wool yarn was used, it might be best to pin and air-dry without pressing.  Be careful with acrylic yarns also, since pressing can flatten the yarn too much.

Visions of Fresh Veggies

Young Pea Plant

After all the rain and thunder last night, the sun is shining bright today. I just might be able to start seeds as I really would like to not only get that done, but also see how the growing goes...with visions of plump juicy tomatoes, green beans, beautiful snow-pea flowers and the aroma of fresh herbs dancing about in my mind.

Turning the soil helps to loosen it for the root systems to have space to stretch out and breath. Amending with compost and fertilizer is very important at the start of the season to provide food and nutrients.

I hope your growing season serves you well.

Garden and Crochet

It's hard to imagine the weather could be as nice as it was today. It reached 72 degrees and just a few days ago there was still ice from the cold winter. I've been looking forward to getting a jump-start on the vegetable garden this year as last year I had to dig and till the beds first. The garden wasn't really planted until mid-May last year which was a good month behind average for gardening. All that was needed to be done to the beds this year was to clean them up a bit, loosen some dirt, rake over the tops and add compost. If it's not too wet from rain tomorrow, I plan to plant lettuce, spinach, peas, and potatoes.

Garden Outline

I sketched a lay out of positions, a visual makes it much easier to plan the garden. It also shows where everything is planted as long as I correct any changes made along the way. I reviewed a site that describes companion planting, which is placing certain plants with other plants. For several reasons this method makes the plants flourish better and easier as it helps to detract insect pests that can harm the plants and provides the soil with nutrients. 

There goes the thunder and here comes the rain right on time as in the forecast. The yard will be nice for setting seed by the weekend.
The camcorder I used last year to record plant growth is in need of an updated cord for uploading to the pc, therefore, it's setting in anxious anticipation for it's new cord to materialize. I'm wanting to use it again this year for the same and to compare this year's garden to last. 

Crochet....A nice lady at church is in need of a sweater for one of her two Boston Terriers. One of the two chews on her sweater while wearing it, so she needs a replacement more often. I found a pattern on line last night and started it as I enjoy crocheting dog sweaters. Depending on my yarn supply, I'll probably crochet one of these every now and then. Although I have a small dog, she's middle aged now and and has it back off in no time. She wasn't introduced to it at an early age, and she maintains a warm temperature even when she's been in the cold for a while.

Colorful baskets of all sizes are fun to crochet at Easter time and the pastel yarns are bright and cheerful. 


Healthy Recipes..I'm always on the search for nutritional foods and desserts to make and bake. Have you ever tried baking with whole wheat or grain flour, and without refined sugar? A mission of sorts I've been on over the past couple of years to make palatable dishes that are both healthy and delicious. 

A cake without refined sugar and flour that tastes as good as a normal cake and decorated with dried and dehydrated fruits instead of candy.

Coconut flour, Buckwheat flour, honey, agave, xyletol are a few suggestions. 

LizOlivia